The three hookups
Walk to the back corner of almost any developed RV site and you will find a pedestal, a water spigot, and a capped pipe in the ground. Those are the three utilities that make up full hookups.
- Electric. A metal pedestal with a 30-amp outlet (three prongs), a 50-amp outlet (four prongs), or both, plus a standard 20-amp household outlet. Each has its own breaker. Electric powers your air conditioner, converter, microwave, and outlets. The difference between the two outlets is large: 30 amps at 120 volts gives you about 3,600 watts, while 50-amp service is two 120-volt legs for roughly 12,000 watts. See our 30-amp vs 50-amp guide for what you can actually run.
- Water.A threaded garden-hose spigot on the park's pressurized supply. Connected to your city water inlet, it feeds your faucets, toilet, and shower directly, so your fresh tank stays empty and your water pump stays off.
- Sewer.A 3- or 4-inch pipe in the ground, usually capped or screw-plugged, that runs to the park's septic or municipal sewer. You connect a flexible sewer hose from your RV's waste outlet to this pipe and can dump gray and black tanks without leaving the site.
What W/E, partial, and dry camping mean
Park listings and reservation systems use shorthand. Decode it before you book:
| Label | What you get | What you have to do |
|---|---|---|
| FHU / Full hookups | Electric, water, sewer | Nothing. Stay as long as you like. |
| W/E or partial hookups | Water and electric, no sewer | Use the park's dump station every 3 to 7 days. |
| E or electric only | Electric, usually 30-amp | Arrive with a full fresh tank; dump on the way out. |
| Dry / no hookups | A pad and maybe a fire ring | Run on batteries, solar, or a generator. |
W/E sites are the norm at state park campgrounds and national park campgrounds, where full hookups are rare. Private parks, KOA campgrounds, and RV resorts usually offer full hookups on most or all sites. If you want to skip the dump station entirely, filter for full-hookup RV parks or narrow it by state, such as full-hookup parks in Florida.
Electric: test the pedestal before you plug in
Miswired pedestals are not rare, especially at older parks. Reversed polarity, an open ground, or a hot-skin condition can damage electronics or shock you. The safest routine:
- Turn the pedestal breaker off before touching anything.
- Plug in a portable surge protector or, better, an electrical management system (EMS) such as a Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X/50X or a Hughes Power Watchdog. An EMS checks voltage, polarity, and ground and refuses to pass power if something is wrong. A basic surge protector only absorbs spikes.
- Plug your shore power cord into the EMS, then flip the breaker on and read the display.
- Low voltage (under about 108 volts) is a real threat to air conditioner compressors. If the display shows it, tell the office and ask for another site.
Bring a 50-to-30 and a 30-to-50 adapter (RVers call them dogbones) so you can use whichever outlet the pedestal has.
Water: always use a pressure regulator
Park water pressure is uncontrolled. Some parks run at 40 psi; others, especially on municipal supply, push 90 psi or more, which is enough to blow a fitting behind a wall. An inline pressure regulator set to 45 to 55 psi (Camco, Valterra, and Renator make adjustable ones with a gauge) costs $15 to $60 and protects your plumbing. Connect it directly to the spigot, then a drinking-water-safe hose (white or blue, never a green garden hose), then an inline sediment filter if you care about taste. Open a faucet inside before turning the spigot on fully so air can escape.
In freezing weather, either use a heated hose (Camco and Pirit sell them with thermostats) or disconnect, drain the hose, and run off your fresh tank overnight.
Sewer: the connection that causes the most grief
Your rig has a 3-inch bayonet waste outlet with two gate valves: black (toilet) and gray (sinks and shower). A sewer hose kit like the Camco RhinoFLEX or Thetford Titan includes a 15- or 20-foot hose, a bayonet fitting for the RV end, and a clear elbow with a threaded adapter for the ground pipe. Attach the elbow first, screw or push it into the sewer inlet, then connect the RV end, and support the hose on a plastic slinky-style support so it slopes downhill toward the inlet.
Keep the black valve closed until the tank is at least two-thirds full, then dump it in one rush so solids leave with the water. Leaving it open on a full-hookup site lets liquid drain away and leaves a pyramid of solids behind. The gray valve can stay open, though many RVers close it a day before dumping black so they have clean water to rinse the hose afterward. Wear nitrile gloves, and never use your fresh water hose for anything on the sewer side. Our dump station guide covers the full procedure.
What full hookups cost, and when they are worth it
Expect full-hookup sites to run roughly $10 to $25 more per night than W/E sites at the same park, and $45 to $90 a night at most private parks in 2026. For a two-night stop, a W/E or electric-only site plus a dump on the way out is often the better deal. For a week or longer, full hookups pay for themselves in convenience, and for monthly stays they are close to essential. Search RV parks near you and check the hookup line on every listing before you book.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to use the park's water and sewer if I have full hookups?
No. Many RVers plug into electric and fill their fresh tank but leave the sewer hose in the bay for a one- or two-night stop. Full hookups are an option, not a requirement.
Is a surge protector enough, or do I need an EMS?
A surge protector guards against voltage spikes only. An EMS also shuts off power for low voltage, high voltage, open ground, and reversed polarity, which are the more common pedestal problems. If you own an RV with a residential fridge or inverter, an EMS is worth the extra $150 to $250.
What does 'W/E' mean on a campground reservation?
W/E stands for water and electric hookups at the site, with no sewer connection. You dump your tanks at the campground's dump station instead.
Can I leave my gray tank valve open on a full-hookup site?
Yes, gray water can drain continuously, though sewer flies and odors can travel up an open line, so a P-trap style elbow or closing the valve at night helps. Never leave the black valve open.